Route 40, pure adventure

Route 40 runs along side the Andes from la Puna until reaching the Glaciers of the South. It is mythical for many reasons. For the solitary stretches it crosses. For the peaks of the Andes that guard the route like centennials. And also because its plan corresponds with the ancient travel routes of the first inhabitants of South America. These wise ancestors were knowledgeable about all of the different microclimates where a traveler could find fresh water supplies, the resource which enabled the development of the cities and towns of today.

The initial journey

Our journey begins in Bariloche and from here we head southward. The target is Route 40 although it will not be followed strictly, especially in the first part of the trip.

From Bariloche to El Bolsón

This stretch of the journey is traveled on National Route 258. It is 131 km of asphalt. The journey can also be made along Route 40, passing for Pilcaniyeu, Las Bayas and El Maitén, but this road is only used by the local inhabitants. It is a desolate journey, passing through the tableland and the foothills. Using this route, in the long valley of El Maitén, one can see the fields used to raise the sheep owned by the Italian Benneton corporation.

By Route 258, in contrast, the road borders the Lake Guillelmo, where there are wonderful campsites, free but without services. Later, the road runs along the valley, rounding its way around the peaks of the mountain crown and crossing the valleys where the waters of the rivers begin to make their way into the Pacific Ocean.

The newly built road doesn’t cross the legendary Canon of la Mosca, where the old road made a dangerous journey up and down the cliffs of the valley.

After crossing the bridge above the river Villegas we enter the National Park Nahuel Huapi, a circular route along the riverbank of the River Manso, important because it carries the water of seven different lakes into the Pacific.

Later we encounter the small town of El Foyel, a picturesque place for a brief stop before continuing the journey.

The vista is stunning: gazing towards the south we can see the peak of Mount Fortaleza, and towards the east the Serrucho mountain chain. After El Fovel, the road descends zigzagging, with very sharp curves. Drive Cautiously!

From El Bolsón to Esquel

Starting at El Bolsón gasoline (petrol) costs half of what it does in the rest of Argentina. One can make this journey in two different distinct modes.

- Either Using National Route 258 and Route 40.

It is a 167 km paved road surrounded by a plateau and a precordillerean landscape. It is the fastest option to travel between Esquel and El Bolsón.

A little before the half way point of the trip we can take a detour to the small town of El Maitén where in the summer they host the railroad festival La Trochita (the famous steam locomotive). At the 76km point we recommend that you take a detour to visit the big house of the estancia (homestead) Leleque, an old, quaint general store. This was also the central administration for the Southern Land Company, created by the English in 1889. In 1991 this enormous estancia was acquired by the Italian firm Benneton.

-Or through Los Alerces National Park

In this option we travel for 193 km by National Route 258 and later by the provincial roads 15 and 71, which are paved by gravel. There are gas (petrol) stations in El Bolsón and Lago Puelo. This road is longer and a little more difficult, but the advantage is that it crosses one of the most spectacular National Parks in all of Argentina. It borders the Rivadavia, Verde and Futalaufgunen Lakes. You can visit the small towns of Epuyén and Villa Futalaufquen. There is also a bus called the “Esquel” which makes this journey.

From Esquel to Gobernador Costa

Leaving Esquel, south of the 43rd Parallel, we stick to Route 40, which in this area follows the ancient path of “rastrillada tehuelche”. This is the territory of the steppe, with small fresh water sources called “mallines” in the language of Mapuche aborigines, which have a vibrant green color. This area is also the home of many cattle and sheep ranches —created by man— and small oasis of fresh water —created by nature— scattered across the arid landscape. It is 181 km. (asphalt), and there are services in Tecka, approximately half way road. You'll find petrol in Tecka and Gobernador Costa.

Route 40 runs parallel to the mountain range of the Andes, never straying more than 60 kilometers from its soaring peaks. Every once in a while the road meets up with other smaller roads that run east-west into the mountain range and pass the stunning lakes of the region. You can take a detour to better see how the vegetation changes from arid mesa to the green forests that cover this part of the mountain range.

There are also numerous estancias, many of which offer lodging.

From Gobernador Costa we can travel close to Lake General Vintter by gravel road. This is an excellent fishing sight, both by boat and from the shore. On the riverbanks one can partake in free camping without services or rent a cabin, which are normally rented by fishermen.

Before arriving at the lake make sure to stop off in Río Pico, a small town of 2000 souls, where you can buy their famous cheeses, cured meats and honey, which are prepared by descendants of German settlers.

From Gobernador Costa to Alto Río Senguer

Here, the road passes through the meseta between the rivers Genoa and Appeleg, following the ancient paths of the Tehuelches.

It is a journey of 180 km in total, 144 are paved and there are 36 unpaved. There are service stations in Alto Río Senguer. Approximately at the half way point, in La Laurita, there is an auxiliary mechanic and a tire shop.

This part of the journey uses provincial routes 20 and 56, which are paved.

Alto Río Senguer has approximately 2000 inhabitants and provides mainly services to the surrounding population, and also, though much less, services to tourists.

From here an interesting excursion can be realized to the Fontana and La Plata (Silver) Lakes. This is an unpaved road which crosses the forests that are the habitat of a small deer called “huemul”. You can partake in free camping along the lakeshores and fish and hunt designated animals. There are also cabins and inns.

And the Journey continues here...