Special Report: The Glaciers National Park and El Calafate

Continuing with our series of special reports, Marita Alasio now deals with this fascinating place located in the very heart of the lakes region in the Province of Santa Cruz. Gateway to the natural wonder of Perito Moreno Glacier, it has the necessary facilities for a stay according to mixed tastes and budgets. It also offers the possibility of living unforgettable experiences, like Minitrekking on the Glacier, a real adventure of union with nature written and photographed by Melina Paolini

The El Calafate Village

A Tour to this unique place in the world starts with this small village placed in the southwest of the Province of Santa Cruz. Its main interest is its proximity to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (The Glaciers National Park).

This National Park, declared "World Heritage Site" by UNESCO in 1981, gathers several glaciers that break away from the cap of ice of the Southern Patagonia. Of all of them, the most important is the Perito Moreno Glacier which is located at Bahia Redonda (Round Bay) in Lago Argentino (Argentine Lake). In order to get to the foot of the Glacier, the ships sail through the Channel of the Icebergs, which joins two of the great branches of the Lake.

The path to The Glaciers National Park from El Calafate is through Provincial Route 11, a gravel road 78 km long.

The weather

In El Calafate the weather is dry with only 300 mm of rain a year. But in the National Park, situated to the west, the rains are rich (1500 mm a year).

The average maximum temperature in summer is 18ºC, and the average minimum temperature in winter is -2ºC. It's located at an equivalent latitude to that of the city of London in the north hemisphere. Remember this information when packing.

How to get to EL CALAFATE

There are two air transportation routes; one gets to the city of Rio Gallegos. From there, along National Route Number 5, completely asphalted, 316 km have to be driven to get to El Calafate. There are several regular and tour bus services that go this way, taking about 4 hours to arrive. There are many services a day. The second air route goes directly to the new El Calafate airport, but frequencies are not daily.

Rates are as follows:
Air ticket Buenos Aires - Rio Gallegos round trip: from $240, taxes included.
Bus ticket Rio Gallegos - El Calafate: $25 one way and $40 round trip.
Air ticket Buenos Aires - El Calafate round trip: from $344, taxes included.
By car you get through National Route 3 to Rio Gallegos and then National Route 5.

Distances from El Calafate to:

Bariloche 1449 Km. (Route 40)
Bahía Blanca 2075 Km.
Buenos Aires 2727 Km
Córdoba 2732 Km.
Neuquén 1979 Km (Route 40)
Puerto Madryn 1388 Km.
Ushuaia 863 Km.
Viedma 1785 Km.

Where to stay

There are multiple lodging possibilities in El Calafate, from complete four-star hotels to small and cozy inns. You can also rent a cabin or camp. Finally, going a few kilometers away from the village, you have the chance of staying in some of the traditional Patagonia ranches that offer lodging service.

Rates from October to April:
4* Hotels: between $170 and $180
3* Hotels: between $90 and $170
2* Hotels: between $55 and $128
1* Hotels: between $50 and $75
Residences: between $30 and $50
(Double room based rates, including breakfast and taxes)
Cabins (average rates)
$90 for four people
$100 for five people
$125 for six people

Rates from April to October:
4* Hotels: between $120 and $135
3* Hotels : between $85 and $130
2* Hotels : between $42 and $110
1* Hotels : $ between 45 and $65
Residences: between $20 and $40
(Based-based rates, including breakfast and taxes)
Cabins ( average rates)
$70 for four people
$80 for five people
$95 for six people

Campsites $5 per person (in Low Season you have to confirm availability of the place). There are also some ranches where to stay or spend a country day.

Minitrekking in Perito Moreno Glacier, what a feeling!

The tour begins at the Bay Harbor "Bajo de las Sombras", sited 22 km from The Glaciers National Park entrance and 8 km from the Glacier. There you go on board in order to reach the opposite coast of Peninsula de Magallanes, crossing the Rico Branch of Argentine Lake. The sailing time is about twenty minutes.

Specialized guides take the group (approximately 20 people) along a coast path that leads to the southern margin of the glacier after a 30 minutes trip. There, helped by specialists, metallic nails in shoes are put, necessary to walk on ice.

Also, the basic technique to use them is explained and a speech about glacier origin, regional flora and fauna is given.

From there, you begin to climb towards the glacier slowly, walking for about two hours, stopping occasionally just to take some pictures.
It's a unique opportunity to appreciate in situ the different formations of the glacier (drains, cracks, etc.) and the varied tonalities of the ice that constitute a show by themselves.

On the way back, an alternative path is used through the forest, allowing to obtain a different panoramic view of the glacier.

When arriving to the shelter, lunch is eaten and then the group goes aboard to navigate back toward the starting point. During this sailing, approaches to the front wall of the glacier in order to appreciate the real proportion of it are carried out.

Some recommendations to have in mind:
Wear trekking boots or sneakers
carry gloves and sunglasses
carry food for lunch (the shelter doesn't have gastronomic facilities)

Rates:
* Minitrekking $100 per person