Chos Malal
In
Mapuche it’s name means “Yellow Corral” and this is
what it looks like in the cool days of autumn, when the green trees turn deep
yellow and ochre and it is corralled by reddish brown foothills.
This charming town is located in a valley cut by the rivers Curí Leuvú and
Neuquén, which has rapids in this location. Towards the right, it is
protected by the imposing Mountain Range of the Wind (“Cordillera de
Viento”), which extends north to south until reaching the Domuyo volcano.
Chos Malal has a rich history. It was the first capital of the Territory
of Neuquén, which became a province in 1904. Its founder and its first
governor was the General Olascoaga. Here existed a fort from which one of the
advances of the “Conquest of the Desert” campaign was launched,
which today is marked by a turret across from the plaza.
Due to the town’s strategic location, it is called “the
key to Northern Neuquén”:
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There is a paved road that intersects routes 22 and 40 which unites this
town with the provincial capital, 385 km away.
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Northwards, route 40 unites Chos Malal with the province of Mendoza.
It is only 130km away from the provincial border and approximately 200
more until Malargüe, the closest Mendozan city. The route is excellently
maintained in Neuquén province; upon entering Mendoza the condition of
the road becomes very bad. There, it is necessary to drive with extreme
caution, as the there are areas of gravel, detours and parts with many
potholes.
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Driving south, the same route 40 brings travelers to more traditional
tourist centers, such as the villages of Copahue-Caviahue ,
and further south, with Junín
de los Andes and runs through the entire Neuquén lake district.
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Driving west, a gravel road in good conditions, provincial route 6, “the
route of the Gendarme” allows travelers, since 1998, access to Chile
by the Pichachén Pass, open only in the summer and only for private
vehicles. This route reaches the nearby city of Los Ángeles.
Today,
Chos Malal is an urban center with the best that Northern Neuquén
has to offer. It has approximately 20,000 inhabitants and offers
all of the services that a traveler needs: hotels, restaurants, transport,
medical attention, banks, etc. There are new neighborhoods, created by local
and federal government spending, as well as the old adobe houses. Besides
each road are drainage ditches and life follows the rhythm of a small town:
the people say hello to each other on the streets, commerce stops for the
"siesta" (nap) and the entire life of the town can be observed only sitting
in a bar in the center. Also, many interesting
excursions can be made.
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